Interview with Eugenio Perrier

We're excited to launch our new monthly newsletter series! Each edition will feature exclusive interviews with former students and industry professionals, highlighting their experiences and how they connect with our study abroad program. Stay tuned for each release, available via email and on our website.

NEWSLETTER AUTHOR

Kelly McClay, retired Dean of the Academy of Culinary Arts, is the author of the first edition of the Marco-Polo Study Abroad newsletter. A passionate advocate for sustainable practices in the food service industry, she has long encouraged students to explore Italy, immersing themselves in its rich culinary traditions and culture. Her dedication to experiential learning and global education continues to inspire the next generation of culinary professionals.

INTERVIEW WITH EUGENIO PERRIER Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano Country Manager North America

GOOD AFTERNOON, EUGENIO,

Thank you for taking the time to speak with us and for helping us share the story of what many consider to be one of the most remarkable products Italy has to offer. To start, could you please introduce yourself and tell us a bit about your background?

CAN YOU BRIEFLY EXPLAIN WHAT A CONSORTIUM IS IN THIS CONTEXT AND WHAT ROLE THE GOVERNMENT PLAYS IN OVERSEEING THE PRODUCTION?

A consortium, in this case, refers to the Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano, the organization of the 291 Parmigiano Reggiano producers dedicated to protecting and promoting the authenticity of Parmigiano Reggiano. It establishes strict production standards, ensures compliance with tradition, and safeguards the cheese’s reputation worldwide. The Italian government supports this by enforcing regulations tied to the cheese’s DOP status, working with the Consortium to oversee quality control, inspections, and legal protections against imitations.

WHAT DOES DOP STAND FOR, AND WHAT DOES IT GUARANTEE TO THE CONSUMER?

DOP stands for "Denominazione di Origine Protetta," or Protected Designation of Origin. It’s a certification granted by the European Union that guarantees Parmigiano Reggiano is produced exclusively in a specific area—which includes the provinces of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Mantua to the right of the Po river, and Bologna to the left of the Reno River—following traditional methods and strict quality standards. For consumers, it ensures authenticity, traceability, and a product tied to its cultural heritage.

CAN YOU DESCRIBE HOW AGING INFLUENCES THE FLAVOR AND TEXTURE OF PARMIGIANO REGGIANO?

Aging is transformative for Parmigiano Reggiano. As it matures, moisture decreases, and the texture evolves from soft and elastic to firm and crumbly, with those signature crunchy crystals forming over time. Flavor intensifies too—younger cheeses are milder and nutty, while longer aging brings out deeper, more complex notes like caramel, spice, and umami. It’s a slow, natural process that shapes the cheese’s character.

HOW MIGHT YOU RECOMMEND USING AN 18-MONTH-AGED CHEESE VERSUS A 24-MONTH-AGED CHEESE?

An 18-month Parmigiano Reggiano is still relatively mild and versatile—perfect for shaving over salads, pastas, or enjoying on its own with a glass of white wine. A 24-month version, with its bolder flavor and firmer texture, shines when grated over robust dishes like risottos or hearty sauces, or paired with full-bodied reds or aged balsamic vinegar. It’s about matching the cheese’s intensity to the dish.

IS IT TRUE THAT PARMIGIANO REGGIANO IS NATURALLY LACTOSE-FREE? IF SO, HOW DOES THAT HAPPEN DURING THE PRODUCTION PROCESS?

Yes, it’s naturally lactose-free. During production, lactose in the milk is broken down by lactic acid bacteria within the first 48 hours of cheesemaking. As the cheese ages for a minimum of 12 months—often much longer—any residual lactose is fully converted, making it safe for lactose-intolerant consumers while preserving its rich taste. By the way, 12 months is the highest minimum aging period in the cheese world.

IN THE U.S., MANY PRODUCTS ARE LABELED AS "PARMESAN." HOW CAN AMERICAN CONSUMERS ENSURE THEY’RE BUYING AUTHENTIC PARMIGIANO REGGIANO FROM THE AREA OF ORIGIN AND NOT AN IMITATION?

Look for the official markings: authentic Parmigiano Reggiano has “Parmigiano Reggiano” impressed on the rind in pin-dot text, along with the Consortium’s seal and a production date. It’s sold in wedges from the wheel, and the PDO label on the packaging is a key indicator. If pre-grated, look for the Parmigiano Reggiano and PDO logo on the packaging. If it just says “Parmesan,” it’s likely an imitation not made to the same standards or in the designated region.

STUDENTS TRAVELING WITH THE MARCO POLO PROGRAM HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO VISIT A PARMIGIANO REGGIANO PRODUCTION FACILITY. WHAT SHOULD THEY LOOK FOR DURING THEIR VISIT THAT WILL DEEPEN THEIR UNDERSTANDING AND APPRECIATION OF THIS TRADITIONAL CRAFT?

They should observe the copper vats where milk is transformed, the hands-on stirring and cutting of curds, and the branding of wheels with the Consortium’s marks—signs of artisanal care. The aging rooms, with towering stacks of wheels, show the patience involved, while the use of local milk ties it to the land. Asking about the cows’ diet and daily rhythms connects the craft to its roots.

CAN YOU SHARE SOME OF THE SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES INVOLVED IN PRODUCING PARMIGIANO REGGIANO? HOW DO THESE PRACTICES SUPPORT BOTH ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY AND THE LONG-TERM TRADITION OF CHEESEMAKING?

Sustainability is woven into the process. Cows are fed mostly locally grown forage, reducing transport emissions, and whey from cheesemaking is repurposed for animal feed or ricotta. The aging process itself minimizes waste—by naturally preserving the cheese for 12 to 24 months or more without additives, we ensure every wheel is fully utilized, rind included, with no spoilage. These practices protect the environment while ensuring the land and traditions remain viable for future generations of producers.

FOR TRAVELERS WHO WANT TO BRING A TASTE OF ITALY HOME, WHAT ARE THE GUIDELINES FOR BRINGING PARMIGIANO REGGIANO BACK FROM ITALY? IS IT PERMITTED TO BRING INTO OTHER COUNTRIES, AND ARE THERE QUANTITY LIMITS? IF IT’S VACUUM-SEALED, DOES IT REQUIRE REFRIGERATION DURING TRAVEL?

Travelers can bring Parmigiano Reggiano into most countries, like the U.S., for personal use, as it’s a hard cheese with no import restrictions—typically up to 20 pounds is fine, but check local customs rules. Vacuum-sealing helps with freshness and odor, and since it’s shelf-stable, refrigeration isn’t required during travel, though it’s best stored cool once home.

EUGENIO, I HAVE TO CONFESS—I’M ABSOLUTELY ADDICTED TO THIS INCREDIBLE CHEESE! I CAN ONLY IMAGINE WHAT IT MUST BE LIKE TO SPEND YOUR DAYS SURROUNDED BY ITS HEAVENLY AROMA AND SHARING ITS REMARKABLE QUALITIES WITH OTHERS. IT TRULY SOUNDS LIKE A DREAM JOB.

Thank you, Kelly! It’s a privilege to work with Parmigiano Reggiano every day. The aroma, the craft, and sharing its story—it’s more than a job; it’s a passion rooted in centuries of Italian tradition. Buon appetito to you too!

Buon appetito!

Kelly McClay